You have just saved the life of a cat!

Our rescued cats come to us through every imaginable circumstance and therefore many times their backgrounds, including ages, are unknown.  We have provided you with as much information as we know about this cat, so we offer this document to guide you through your new adoption experience.  We insist that all adopters keep their cats indoors, for their safety and so that they do not end up in a shelter, picked up as strays.  We try not to adopt to people who will declaw their cats - it is barbaric and unnecessary.  We have included helpful information in this packet to protect you, your family and your household from cats' clawing habits.

Shopping List:  Litter box (covered or open) and litter, carrier, brush, nail clippers, toys, catnip, cardboard floor scratcher (alpine incline scratch works great) with catnip, bowls, dry food (we recommend Nutro any flavor dry food) and wet food (anything but Whiskas).  Keep dry food and water out at all times for your cat, then wet food once in the morning and once at night.  For first time pet owners, pick up a pet guide - you'd be amazed at the facts you'll find and helpful tips for happy and healthy pet ownership.

Pet Insurance -  www.aspcapetinsurance.com

We suggest you sign up for insurance - you never know when you'll need it!

No shelter will pay for medicines or care once you have adopted your animal - this really is no different from adopting a child.  There will be monetary responsibilities which go along with the care of an animal, especially kittens.   The program above gives you 10 days to sign up via telephone or online.  This insurance will reimburse the adopter for vet bills for illness or injury that is "shelter related" - $500 per incident with a $50 deductible.  Shelter related could mean almost anything such as ear mites, cough, feline leukemia, skin conditions, infection, disease, etc.  These things sometimes happen and it's best to be prepared just in case.  Our rescue organization has no relationship with this insurer; we only use this as a suggestion to our adopters as any responsible group would.

Please take your new cat or kitten to your veterinarian (we will happily help you find one if need be!) within 10 days.  This is for the protection of other pets you may have in your home.

If you've adopted a kitten(s), they will need two more "3-1" inoculation shots to be fully protected against the 3 types of diseases that cats are prone to get (calici, rhinotracheitis, and panleukopenia (distemper).  We have given your cat one shot so far as part of your adoption fee.  Take your paperwork to your vet who will determine the timing for the remainder of the shots.  Adult cats need the shots updated every year (or just follow the instructions of your vet).

For your first vet visit, bring a stool sample.  We try to deworm and treat every cat for parasites, but some cats need more than one treatment for each.  This is not unusual, so don't think your cat is defective - again, this is nature people!  You may find that your cat or kitten has some flea "dirt" - we have sprayed your cat with Frontline spray which kills active fleas, but does NOT kill flea eggs.  Ask your veterinarian about flea protection at your first visit.

The very first thing to do upon reaching home with any new cat is to plunk them into the litterbox!   They don't have to do anything, they just need to know where it is.  They'll take things from there! If you need to relocate the litter box  at a later time, move it only three or four feet at a time so they can follow it to the new location.  Over a period of several days, you should have successfully relocated your litter box to the new place of your choosing.

Where to start the new cat?  In one room of the house especially if you have another cat.  Over the first few days, the cats will reach their paws under the door, sniff each other through the door and maybe even pass toys back and forth.  They  know each other is there, they can hear and smell them, so this is Their  first period of adjustment.

After a few days, sit the new cat on your lap and let the resident cat march around the new cat's room. They will probably take one look at each other and give a little "hiss!".  That's ok!  It's to be expected.  The next time, try it with the resident cat on your lap and let the new cat explore.  Slowly, let the cats meet each other.  Short of KILLING each other, they will work out their differences.  Before you know it, they'll be napping together and waiting for dinner together.  Cats should allow the new cat to use their litter box, but just be conscious of the personalities involved.

The first couple days - If your cat was ever a stray, please realize that nature still takes over.  Keep plenty of litter boxes handy and place them on each level of the house where the cat will spend the majority of his or her time.  Keep laundry, jackets, blankets and shoes off the floor as the cat will sometimes use these items as a litter box.  Cats like soft things to pee and defecate on, so this should serve as a reason to keep a clean floor at least!

Expect some whimpering or a period of adjustment such as hiding, stress or bewilderment.  It's all very new to them.

If you have a new kitten and want the kitten to sleep with you at night, either keep a litter box in bed at the foot of the bed with you, or pull up a chair or ottoman next to the bed and place the litter box there during the night.  Lift the kitten into the litter box and then let him or her climb out of it back into bed with you. Do this several times to reinforce the idea of a night time "in bed" litter box. Please don't expect a tiny baby kitten to wake up in the middle of the night, leave your nice, warm cozy bed, walk all the way downstairs and use the litter box during the night!  She's a baby!!!  You wouldn't expect your child to do it - your kitten can't do it either.

If your kitten is playing in the living room with you during the day, drag an extra litter box in there with you so you won't have any accidents!  Just use common sense people, your kitten's "childhood" lasts a lot less time than a human's so use caution and enjoy it at the same time.

NEVER leave a kitten alone with ANY dog until that kitten is at least an adolescent who can escape by jumping up onto furniture or swatting to protect itself.  That means NEVER - no matter how "sweet" you think your dog is, nature is nature folks.  We don't want any accidents.

You'll soon also learn to cat and kitten proof your house - you may need to add tin foil to the soil of your house plants so they don't use it for a litterbox.  You may need to patch that old hole in the wall because the cat likes to hide there.  You'll need to check closets and cabinets to make sure you haven't shut the kitten up in one and you'll have to teach your children to respect this new little creature.  Check electrical outlets and things that could pose a danger to your cat, drapery cords, and string.  Make sure the cat does NOT get out of the house!

Back in the days when the feline diet was strictly self-caught, cats got their veggies predigested from the stomach contents of their prey.  Today, many cats still try to supplement meat based cat food with leafy greens.  For information log onto the website http://www.penmarric.ns.ca./

Even cat-safe plants such as wheat grass and catnip can cause vomiting.  To meet their need for plant-based nutrients without having to mop up afterward, offer fresh alfalfa sprouts, parsley, spinach, grated carrots, peas, cucumber, steamed broccoli or green beans.

Flower Potty?  Large planters are frequently targeted as elimination spots, especially by cats that have spent part of their lives outdoors.  By covering the entire pot with mesh netting that's gathered and tied around the tree's trunk or by tightly packing pebbles or marbles around the plant, the cat is barred from getting to the dirt and the plant can still be watered.  You may also use tin foil or plastic wrap leaving enough space for water.